After being sick for almost a week (so long!), today is the first day I've felt like myself again. This calls for white tights.
Got a little schoolgirl tie on, too. And white shoes!!
I am truly feeling like a new woman today -- the sun is shining and I'm about to drink my first coffee in several days! Hope your Monday's getting off to a great start, too! Xox, Madge
Julie lives in Philadelphia, possesses glorious red curls, and, as far as I know, has sewn more shifts than any other civilian! For 2013, she's challenging herself to make all her own clothes and accessories and is blogging about her project at Handmade Mess. Today, she takes us on a tour of the many shifts she's made using her custom Wear the Shift sewing pattern as a jumping off point. So many pretty ideas! Thanks Julie!
(And, my lovelies, everyone can get their own custom pattern starting tomorrow! Stay tuned!)
Each of these dresses was made using the same pattern: my Wear the Shift custom-fit shift dress pattern. What I’ve discovered while working with this is that once you have a basic, well-fitting dress pattern, the variations to customize that basic shape are pretty much endless. I feel like I’m only just scratching the surface of possibilities.
The basic shift design is a sleeveless, scoop-necked dress shaped with darts at the bust and back. Shown at the far left, above (and here), it’s great for a summer weight dress, a shell for layering, or as a jumper. I liked it so much, I wanted to wear a shift in all seasons, so I quickly made another, raising the back neckline and adding short sleeves. (Julie's tutorial on how to do this is coming soon! -ed.)
From there, it seemed that every fabric lurking in my stash was another potential shift dress, each one lending different characteristics to the pattern. A thick, stretchy bouclé fabric turned the design into a snuggly sweater dress. The neckline was raised for a more conservative shape to offset a flashy red wool. I removed pockets from the side for a smoother line, only to add them back later in the form of curved patch pockets as a design feature.
Along the way, the fit changed a bit, as well. I learned that even with the same pattern, the weights, thicknesses, and drapes of different fabrics required slight alterations to the basic shape. To dresses in thicker cloth, I added a small vertical dart to the front panels, under the bust, to create a waistline. I removed the side zipper, then later added a center back zipper on a version with a closer neckline, to make getting in and out easier.
I found it simple enough to make changes to the basic pattern, patching in new necklines, pockets, etc., using newspaper to add or fill, and marking other changes right on the original pattern, so that I could follow my notes in subsequent versions, if I wished.
And then, I started playing with the idea of a collar, creating a removable piece that could snap into the dress’s neckline, and then be removed for a different look on the same dress.
I still have more to figure out. I’m still studying the art of darts, in particular. I know objectively that a basic “sloper” or dress form should have a bust point and static depth and length for proper shaping of a dart, yet I find that in practice, the length, in particular, varies with the weight of the fabric I’m working with, and I often end up adjusting darts a bit after the shoulders and sides have been seamed.
This photo shows the wide variation in dart positioning I’ve made, plus the vertical bust dart that I added to my basic front, whenever I’m working with thicker stiffer material, to keep the dress drapey and shapely.
The good thing is that I know the basic dress pattern -- my original shift -- fits properly, to my own unique measurements, so as I embark on creative variations on my own, I always have a strong foundation to return to. When in doubt, I can throw out my markings and alterations and go back to the original. In this way, sewing with my own custom-fit pattern has allowed me to be more adventurous in my sewing than I’ve ever dared to be with commercial patterns built to an idealized form. With those, I never knew if it was the pattern that was wrong (or just wrongly fitted to my body) or if it was I who had messed it up along the way.
I’m having quite a bit of fun learning in the classroom of my own home workroom, and testing my experiments in the form of fun, wearable dresses, out in the street. If Wear the Shift ever expands to other garments (maybe slacks and jackets,?) I’d love to follow along.
Happy new year, shifty pals! My first outing of 2012 was brunch with my bestie Jolene (who did this!) and her new fella. We had brunch and gabbing at Piper's Pub on the Southside, home of the super delicious Irish Boxty!
I was feeling festive so I wore some bright new tights, my current favorite hilarious giant shoes, and a Blinking Cursor skirt, topped off with a black and silver shirt and a navy cape I got last winter on Etsy. The nearly fluorescent purple bag is from Cambridge Satchel Company, and was a birthday gift from my beloved. Thank you, baby!!
One of my goals for the new year is to make 50% more people reach for their sunglasses when they look at me, and I think I got off to a good start!
Xox! Madge
In the fall of 1991, I went with some friends to see the Chili Peppers and Smashing Pumpkins. An unknown band was playing first -- Pearl Jam -- and from the moment I laid ears on them, I was in love. Consequently, on most December 23rds, I host a birthday party for Eddie Vedder, PJ's warm-hearted and honey-voiced singer, because he is awesomeness personified. This year, I also made a flannel shift in his honor!! STOKED
I wore it with raspberry tights from ModCloth which are my new favorite tights -- very stretchy and warm and opaque -- and some rather ridiculous/amazing Blowfish shoes I got last week . I've been coveting them for months and spotted a good deal and pounced and now I get to be 6'3" whenever I want. No lie!!
Also in the mix are a vaguely Star Trek-y black cardigan I got from Torrid like 8 years ago, and a pair of giant silver granny square earrings from Etsy that make everyday life feel quite festive.
Then for Christmas, I got some false eyelashes! I want to wear them every day!
We are having a super lovely, relaxing, and colorful Christmastime around these parts -- hope you are, too. <3
You know how you sometimes pick up little nuggets of wisdom and never forget them, even when you have no idea where they came from? For me, one of those nuggets is, "All shades of green look nice together."
Is this true? I think so. I love how the neutral charcoals in this outfit play with the bright turquoise tights, the olive dress, and the kelly green scarf. See the tiny mint green earrings too?
The white shoes are also making me irrationally happy. I tried to wear them sans socks over the summer, and that didn't work, but turns out they are super comfy with tights! And extra jaunty!
This winter more than any other, I am having a ball mixing up layers and colors. It makes getting dressed so much fun!
What have you been experimenting with lately? Sparkly tights? Big boots? Sweater vests with swingy skirts? Do tell!
Cute dress alert! This is Jane, who lives outside of Atlanta and describes herself as warm-natured. A few months ago, she got this shift, also named Jane!
She emailed me a few weeks ago with these adorable pictures and mentioned that she was still contemplating how to layer and bejewel her shift. So I offered to find some options for her and see if you guys had any ideas, too.
Based on a few things Jane mentioned in her email, I started thinking about lightweight layers and cute yet comfy and casual shoes. I also felt like natural stone and wood jewelry would look great on her, with just a little leather and sparkle to lift the looks up.
So I went on Pinterest and Etsy and started picking stuff out (which is SUPER FUN BTW) and here's what I came up with. Click the image to see this board on Pinterest, where you can check these items out closer-up and visit the shops where I found them.
I love idea of this shift with a jean jacket, gray oxfords, and a lightweight scarf in a saturated color. Or, to dress it up a little, a soft wine cardigan, a buttery leather belt, and some shimmery flats. Or with the tweedy blazer and those boots!? So many cute options. And I love the natural jewelry with this color palette.
What do you guys think? Any ideas to help Jane style her Jane?
(And if you need some suggestions for styling any of your Wear the Shift garments, drop me a line via the Contact form.)
Man, it has been absolutely GORGEOUS in Pittsburgh for about the last 2 weeks -- sunny and 60 degrees almost every day. I'm sucking up as much sunshine as I can now, because we will descend into 5 months of grayness any minute now. In the meantime ...
This is my newest shift, Peak Experience. I made it while writing the instructions for sewing your own shift and have been wearing it a lot lately -- it's a nice weight and the color is making me happy, especially paired with warm brights like this coral jacket and bright green scarf.
The jeggings and brown boots are seeing a lot of play this fall, too, as are the earrings I have on. I got them from a lovely Etsy shop about a month ago and have worn them at least half of all days since they arrived.
Sunshine, bright colors, and sparkly things. So far November has been rad. How's your autumn-time going? Can you even believe that Christmas is like 7 weeks away?
Ever since I made this shift about a year ago, it has been among my very favorites. I love wearing it because the colors look great with so many other shades, but it's not at all boring -- it kind of reminds me of Olivia, which is in the shop right now. Check out 3 different looks I put together using this dress.
For this look -- which screams BRUNCH to me -- I paired the shift with jeggings (awful word for an amazing garment), my favorite red boots, and a lightweight coat I scored last month at Re-Dress NYC. Sadly, their brick and mortar shop is closing in a few weeks ... but their online shop is expanding and features another amazing garment with a terrible name, teggings.
This look is a little nutty, but I love it for a night out on the town. Purple tights, a satin jacket, little gray booties, and my workhorse shift. Sparkly accessories take it over the top in the most delightful way. The only thing I'm missing is Rick James -- it's a celebration!
It's cold in the office where I work. Hell, it is just generally cold in the world right now and it's only getting colder. I layered my trusty shift with wooly gray tights, a drapey raspberry cardigan, and tall brown boots, another amazing secondhand find from my recent trip to New York. Gotta stay warm and keep moving -- no time to hibernate!
Which look is your favorite?
On days when I wear my red boots, it's almost impossible to NOT kick tremendous amounts of butt.
They are from Camper and I've had them for years, and they never fail to make me feel awesome.
What's your go-to item for feeling like a total badass?
After a glorious week of Indian Summer, fall is now officially happening ... and it's the gray, drizzly variety. Seems like the leaves changed colors one day and fell down the next! I woke up determined to battle the entropy with NEW (to me) SHOES and built a (slightly insane) outfit around them.
So I got these beauties a few weeks ago on a super-quick trip to New York to see Elvis Costello, who was great! Found them at the Buffalo Exchange in Williamsburg, and, yes, they are practically brand new Fluevogs. For $30. Which is like 90% off the original price! I actually did a little wiggle dance in the store when I saw them, and the shopboy joined me in my glee. Right place, right time, high five.
Here's a closeup. I love them with the purple tights! And I now have a new answer to the question "What goes with everything?"
Have you landed any major secondhand scores lately? Do tell!
Hey kids! It's sort of gray in Pittsburgh today, but not too cold. I woke up wanting to wear this skirt, paired with a pop of bright color.
I have to give a shout out to Svoboda, because they are probably my favorite plus-size designer. Their jeans are the best, cut beautifully for both comfort and hottness, though they are seriously not cheap. For several years I was able to pick up samples and overstock on ebay at a huge discount, but they don't appear to be selling there anymore. Bummer.
Fun fact: these pics were taken in front of the Electric Garage, where gross old cars are transformed into shiny electric cars by super smart folks from ChargeCar (part of the CREATE lab at CMU, where my honey works). This building used to be an Exxon station, and I worked here one veeeeeery long winter when I was in school. Good times?
Yesterday felt like the first day of fall in Pittsburgh -- drizzly and chilly and gray. The upside? I got to wear lots of layers and bust out some boots to boot!
This is an older prototype shift -- you can tell by the neckline -- and I haven't worn it for a while. I think the weather made me want to wear something lavender and blue-ish. I'm also wearing jeggings from Svoboda, boots from Blowfish, and a corduroy blazer I got at the thrift store. Had to get that side shot because I am in love with this bag! My fella gave it to me on my last birthday and there are thistles inside!
Who else is excited for cold-weather fashion?
OK, so I have been rocking this Rebel Girl shift for a while now, and it seems like every time I wear it, I do a little something different with the styling.
On the left is me pretending to be demure in my shift, some capri leggings, little black flats, a cardigan, and some pearls. I could totally pass for Jackie Kennedy here RIGHT??!?!
In the middle is my favorite look -- the shift paired with crazy blue tights, my favorite blue/green/black oxfords, and a black tunic over top. I like the tunic over the shift with insane tights because it gives the eye a little rest and draws your eyes like whoa to the leggal region. Blue legs, people!! The 21st century is amazing.
The look on the right is for going out and shaking a tail feather. (I am doing the "What Have You Done For Me Lately?" move here in case you can't tell.) Orange and gray heels with (pegged!) black jeans, a black satin blazer, bright red lipstick, and, of course, the shift.
You may have noticed that my shoes do not "match" my dress. However, they do somehow "go" -- but I would never have known that if I hadn't tried them on. Moral of the story: color mixing is mysterious and worth experimenting with. Hole yourself up in your bedroom some Tuesday night with a few glasses of wine and see what you can come up with.
So there you have it -- 3 different ways to style the same humble electric blue and lime green shift. Which one is your favorite? Leave a comment and let us know!
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